In this issue, we highlight the Aomori winter fish “cod.”
Aomori Cod
Aomori Prefecture has one of the highest catches of cod in Japan.
Cod return to Mutsu Bay during the spawning season from December to February, when their bellies are full of milt and roe and they are at their most delicious peak.
In Aomori, cod are caught by bottom trawl, longline, gill net, and bottom net, and are taken to Hachinohe, Tomari area of Rokkasho, Sai, Wakinosawa area of Mutsu, Tairadate area of Sotogahama, Fukaura, and other areas.
The Wakinosawa area of Mutsu has long been famous as the “village of cod,” with the honor of having presented a fighter plane to the government with the money earned from a large catch of cod. The bottom net fishing method that began in the Tairadate area of Sotogahama is said to have originally been used to catch cod, and this fishing method is now developing mainly on the Sea of Japan side of Aomori Prefecture.
Enjoy the Whole Fish – Various Cod Dishes –
Cod has beautiful pinkish-white flesh that is healthy being high in protein, low in fat, and contains vitamins, iodine, and other nutrients. It has a very mild flavor, making it a favorite for those who may dislike fish otherwise. Since the flesh of pre-ripe cod is firm, it is recommended to be grilled with salt or sashimi (kobujime).
In addition, shirako, or milt, during the spawning season is particularly plump and developed, and has a rich flavor. The milt can be enjoyed as sashimi or nabe (hotpot dish), while the roe can be marinated in soy sauce or dishes seasoned with roe (ko-ae).
Local Cuisine “Madara no Jappa-jiru” (Codfish Jappa Soup)
“Jappa” is a Tsugaru dialect word for the head, bones, and entrails left after the fish is cut into three pieces, and corresponds to “ara” in the common Japanese.
Jappa soup is made by boiling the chopped “jappa” parts, radish, Chinese cabbage, tofu, leeks, etc., and seasoned with miso or salt. It is an essential winter dish in Aomori.
The flavor is further deepened by the addition of fish liver and milt to the tasty broth from the jappa. It is a dish long enjoyed at home as a local dish because of its high nutritional value and ability to warm the body and soul during the cold winter months.
In the old days, New Year’s Day in Aomori was celebrated by buying a whole large cod taken from Mutsu Bay and using it to prepare all the New Year’s Eve dishes.
In this way, the local people would eat up the entire cod, including the meat, milt, roe, and “jappa,” without throwing anything away.
